The city of Marrakech has been buzzing with rumors that Dior’s Cruise 2020 collection would be presented in the Red City. On April 29th, the collection was revealed at the ruined 16th century El Badi Palace, considered a Jewel of Islamic Art. Dior and creative Director Maria Graza Chiuri choose to open the “Common Ground” show with wax fabric and colorful patterned cloth from sub-Sahara Africa. The goal was to communicate a dialogue between Africa and Morocco.
“Wax celebrates diversity; it is the fabric of a meeting of cultures,” says Dior.
100 models walked the show, wearing a combination of couture and wax print, reinterpretations of 15 classic Dior designs. To add a wax element to the Dior fabrics, Chiuri consulted with French anthropologist Anne Grosfilley, who specializes in wax. Chiuri took special attention to be careful about cultural misappropriations and provide varied points of view so history would not repeat itself. Dior’s 2018 Mexico inspired campaign with Jennifer Lawrence was placed under fire.
In alignment with the presentation of his designs on the African continent, Dior collaborated with Uniwax, a wax design studio from Cote d’Ivoire; Pathe’O from Burkina Faso (stylist of Nelson Mandela); Jamaican-British designer Grace Wales Bonne; and Mickalene Thomas am African American painter.
“I felt it was important to give another point of view on Dior,” said Chiuri. This Dior collection was more diverse than in past seasons. Strapless empire waist dresses, blouses with delicate details, cropped trousers allowing easy movement, camouflage ponchos, flowing silk gowns, lacy white dresses, and Murano glass inspired embroidery – all took center stage at the Dior show.
Dior’s love for Morocco traces back to when he worked with his heir Yves Saint Laurent – founder of Marrakech‘s Jardin Majorelle -and his 30-year connection with French designer Marc Bohan. The show also promoted the traditional ceramics and weaving of the Rif Mountains with the ceramic company Bouchra Boudoua. Jessica Alba and her husband Cash Warren, Karlie Kloss, Lupita Nyong, Shailene Woodley were among a few of the A list stars in attendance.